Surprisingly, as far as most tourists are concerned, Naxos is still something of a one town island: most are content to divide their time between Naxos Town (or Chora) and the miles of fine sandy beaches that run down the coast to the south where freelance camping and nudity abound. First impressions of the town can be rather mixed as the enchantment of the temple is somewhat offset by an increasingly glizty waterfront; the cute old hardware shops of just a few years ago have now given way to tourist shops and cash dispensing machines. Most of the town's amenities are to be found here, including a good bookshop, and a bus station complete with timetables for the island. Once you step into the streets behind the main street and wander into the chora you will discover the older and far more attractive face of Naxos Town. The combination of 13 century castle, Greek chora and Venetian houses (some still adorned with the crumbling escutcheons of the noble families who lived here during three centuries of rule) combine to make for shady, and interesting wandering, and near the castle walls you will find several good restaurants to augment the collection running the length of the promenade.